5 Jul 2023 5 min to read
Maurice Herzog’s tale of the first Annapurna Ascent is dreamlike and no less than an adventurous tale. Westerners rarely visited Nepal during Maurice Herzog’s ascent of the Himalayas. The Nepalese villagers were unfamiliar with fair-skinned individuals and were highly curious. Approaching closely with curiosity, the villagers eagerly touched Maurice Herzog and his companions, fascinated by their fair complexions. Each village they reached was filled with excitement, exclaiming. While some observed from a distance with caution, the villagers warmly welcomed the adventurers, greeting them with folded hands.
Herzog reminisces about the stark contrast between past and present Nepal as if they were two distinct nations. Westerners had little understanding of Nepal’s geography and essence, with no visa requirements or strict regulations for Himalayan expeditions. The issuance of permits by King Mahendra served as the sole authority for mountaineering, granting access to the kingdom’s mountains.
Initially targeting Mount Everest, Herzog, and his team shifted their attention to Mount Annapurna due to the British climbers’ repeated attempts to conquer Everest. In 1950, they victoriously reached the summit of Annapurna I, standing at 8,075 meters.
Herzog’s team chose Annapurna over Dhaulagiri for its challenging nature. While Mount Everest is well-known, Annapurna proves to be more demanding with steep slopes, dangerous avalanches, and a need for great courage. Conquering Annapurna sparked curiosity about other peaks in Nepal. Herzog felt being granted permission to enter Nepal as the first Westerner was a fortunate opportunity. During that time,the British Geological Survey Office accurately measured Nepal’s mountains, revealing Sagarmatha as the world’s highest peak, later named Everest. However, the local names ‘Chomolungma’ and ‘Sagarmatha’ hold a more authentic appeal.
Herzog and his team ventured into the Nepalese region that boasts 10 peaks over 8,000 meters, including Mt. Annapurna. They embarked on a 4 months journey, trekking through valleys and ascending steep slopes along the Kali Gandaki River. Their diverse team, which included Sherpas, guides, a physician, a diplomat, and a filmmaker, faced the challenges of an underdeveloped tourism festival and unfamiliarity with hosting large groups in the Himalayas.
Herzog was 31 and still unmarried when he embarked on the daring ascent of Mount Annapurna. The climb resulted in permanent disability as frostbite claimed both his legs, leaving only a small portion of his ankle. Seeking proper medical care, he traveled to Delhi and later to France for treatment at an American hospital, as Nepal and India lacked well-equipped hospitals at that time.
After trekking the Himalayas, Herzog received an unexpected invitation from Maharaja Mohan Shamsher (then Rana Prime Minister). While his friends continued to Delhi, he decided to meet the Maharaja with Dr. Hado Marshal before returning to Kathmandu, feeling tired and weak. The Maharaja hosted a grand celebration at the palace, honoring Herzog with the Gorkha Khukuri Cross medal, making him the only foreigner to receive this distinction.
As the first mountaineer to ascend Annapurna, Herzog received numerous accolades, including honors in his hometown of France. Recognizing the significance of his courageous Himalayan climb, President Gaulle saw it as a symbol of conquering the world and appointed Herzog as a minister to inspire French youth. He served as the Minister of Youth and Sports, he spent eight years in President Charles de Gaulle’s government.
Herzog’s book ‘Annapurna-First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak’ became a global sensation, selling over 50 million copies in various languages and surpassing even the Bible’s sales shortly after its release in 1951-52. It contributed significantly to promoting Nepal’s Himalayan region, with translations into 60 languages and its incorporation into French educational curricula. Despite authoring other works, none achieved the same level of recognition as ‘Annapurna.’
Herzog no longer feels the same enthusiasm when observing today’s mountaineers. The once-admired principles and rules that guided Himalayan climbing seem to have diminished, leading to a lack of respect and care for the mountains. Pollution and disregard for cleanliness have tarnished their allure, while commercialization and sponsorships have transformed mountaineering into a commercial affair. Modern tools and conveniences have made it easier for inexperienced climbers, eliminating some of the challenges and raw essence which Herzog cherished in his own climbing experiences.
Herzog’s pursuit of the Himalayas has brought numerous risks and challenges, shaping both his life and that of fellow adventurers. While friendships and understandings have faded over time, Nepal remains a cherished second homeland. However, circumstances have prevented reunions and deepened a sense of discouragement. The significance of past events now resides in the realm of comprehension.
Maurice Herzog, the conqueror of Annapurna, passed away on December 13, 2012, at the notable age of 93. Though he is no longer with us, his legacy and his invaluable contributions to bringing Nepal to the world’s attention will forever remain. His daring feat of conquering Annapurna has left a permanent mark on mountaineering history, inspiring generations to embrace the spirit of adventure and exploration.
Note: This interesting article is based on an insightful interview conducted by Dadi Sapkota, shedding light on Herzog’s remarkable achievement.
